Chain Maintenance
A neglected chain doesn't just wear itself out — it eats sprockets, wastes power, and can snap at the worst possible moment. It's also one of the fastest checks you can do before any ride.
Cleaning and lubricating
- Clean after every muddy or dusty ride — a dirty, gritty chain wears itself and the sprockets fast.
- Lube every 1-2 rides, always after cleaning and while the chain is still slightly warm so the lube penetrates the rollers.
- Wipe off excess lube — a chain dripping in oil just attracts more dirt.
Tension
Too tight and the chain strains the gearbox output shaft and swingarm bearings; too loose and it can jump the sprocket or slap the swingarm. Check your model's spec for exact slack (often 30-50mm of vertical movement at the tightest point of the chain — it isn't perfectly round as it wears, so always check at the tightest spot), and re-check after any suspension work.
When to replace
- You can pull the chain noticeably away from the rear sprocket ("chain hooking").
- Sprocket teeth look hooked or shark-finned rather than straight.
- Stiff links that don't flex smoothly around the sprocket, even after cleaning and lubing.
Replace the chain and both sprockets together — a new chain on worn sprockets (or vice versa) wears out again within a few rides.
Keep a record of when you last cleaned, lubed or replaced the chain on each bike, so you're never guessing at the trailhead.
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